Fashion: the range, the accessory that is on the rise

The range? Reserved for old ladies? What Nenni! More than just auxiliary accessory, it stands out today as a real object of desire.

If Tilda Swinton, Eva Longoria or Rossy de Palma fell for creations by Olivier Bernoux, a designer based in Madrid, the accessory is now invited in backstages and under the spotlights of the most prominent parades.

Spotted during the Jacquemus parade last June, he accompanied Aya Nakamura At the Palace of Versailles. He also shone in the final parade of Demna Gvasalia for Balenciagawith two models signed Duvelleroy. For its part, Armani Privé has bet on an extra-large black lace range for its fall-winter 2025-2026 collection.

A wind from far

Note, however, that despite its trendy side, the object is not new. Indeed, he went through centuries and civilizations with an astonishing constancy. As the site of Friends of the Fan Museumits origins would go back to Asia, especially in Japan from the 8th century, where the first folding models appear, the sensu. He then won Europe via commercial roads. In France, it became from the 16th century a very popular ceremonial object. And after having been somewhat neglected by the Spanish aristocracy in the 18th century, the manufacture of fans experienced a new boom in the 19th century. But the two world wars brutally slow down this dynamic, between economic restrictions and evolution of uses.

After a period of relative discretion, it is a certain Karl Lagerfeld Who brought him up to date from the end of the 1970s, making it a flagship element of his style.

Today, faced with scorching summers and an increasing ecological awareness, the range is reborn as an accessory that is both practical, aesthetic and committed, adopted by those who want to display their style while refusing air conditioning. In Madrid for example, Olivier Bernoux offers luxury fans. Questioned by theAFPhe explains that his clientele is international, with very marked tastes according to cultures: “Men are more classic, Spanish is very sensitive to noise (what the range is doing by opening). For the American client, it is necessary that it is large fans, that you see. In France, they are very sensitive to all our linen work. ”

The range as a weapon: from the cutting in the sharp style

Beyond its utilitarian function, the object also seduces for its dramatic potential … and martial. In pop culture, it is sometimes diverted into a real weapon, embodying power and elegance at the same time. In the famous manga “Naruto”, the character of Temari handles a gigantic range decorated with symbols, capable of triggering devastating gusts. It is no coincidence: the Japanese range (uchiwa you sensu) was historically used in certain martial disciplines as a defensive or strategic accessory.

This “weapon of style” facet also appeals to the stage. In culture dragthe range is much more than a gadget: it punctuates a scathing performance or district. It is part of the body language of Queers scenes, used as much for its dramatic effect as as a rallying sign. It is not uncommon to see the object slammed to the rhythm of the music or open and agitated with plume during the steps of pride, for example.

An expressive gesture that has become a means of identity affirmation as much as advertising or visual manifest. Olivier Bernoux confirms it to AFP: “Just opening and closing the range, it’s already a whole gesture that is wonderful, which will attract attention.”

A lasting, stylish and practical accessory

At a time when the planet suffocates and when the slightest ecological gesture is scrutinized, the accessory ticks many boxes: no battery, no single -use plastic, an infinite reusable design and possible craft manufacturing. In a few movements, it refreshes noiseless, without pollution and without electricity. In front of him Portable mining have invaded festivals, stations, backpacks. Rechargeable via USB, often colorful and sometimes cute, they promise instantly freshness. However, looking at it more closely, these gadgets raise several issues: during pollution or dry air, they can project harmful particles directly to the face, accentuating unknowns and respiratory risks. Not to mention the ecological impact of these objects, often made at low cost with low durable materials and a very limited lifespan.

A manifesto to unfold

The range therefore does not only blow out with air: it infuses style, memory, culture. His current reinvention owes nothing to chance. In an era which values ​​expressiveness, sustainability and originality, this millennial object has found its place. He crosses genres, borders, eras, while keeping this little “I don’t know what” of theatrical who makes him unique.

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