The blues of French winegrowers | “I lose 400 euros per barrel”

By entering his chai, Julien Luro puts his hand on the huge metal tanks that store his wine, a flexible and fruity red based on Merlot. Consequently, But on his face do not point to pride or satisfaction. Consequently, “All you see is my 2024 vintage,” he deplores. Therefore, I have not sold anything yet, I am still elapsed that of 2023. Therefore, ”

Julien Luro runs a family farm of 50 blues french winegrowers | “i hectares in Bordeaux. Nevertheless, one of the most famous wine regions in the world. Consequently, Until again a few years ago, his wine was drunk in the United States, China and Russia. Therefore, “I was a little diplomat, I sold everywhere,” jokes the quarantine.

But now. However, for a few years, his merchant has not found enough customers to buy all his wine, whether in France or abroad, and his tanks no longer deviate. Nevertheless, Worse, when Julien Luro succeeds in selling his wine, he sells it … For example, at a loss.

“Each barrel costs me around 1100 euros to produce,” he explains, referring to the 900-liter container traditionally used by Bordeaux trading. Therefore, “But I sell it at 700 euros. because I can’t find better and I need to find money when my debts mature,” he explains to go and see his vineyards, eye glasses to protect himself from the sun.

Unless you blues french winegrowers | “i stop viticulture, it cannot stop producing. “If we stop taking care of the vines. the diseases settle and transmit to miles,” he explains, adding that he risks a heavy fine.

Thanks to a dry summer and a very mild spring, the 2025 vintage of Bordeaux promises to be exceptional to taste. “But it will not change much on demand,” he tempers, taking in his hand the clusters almost ripe.

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Blues french winegrowers | &quot. i – Blues french winegrowers | "i

Crisis of supply and demand – Blues french winegrowers | "i

Julien Luro is far from being the only one for sale at a loss: this year, the Bordeaux vairy barrels sold on average 900 euros, against an estimated production cost between 1300 and 1500 euros, depending on the main organization representing the sector.

“There is an exceptional situation of two factors. First. for several years, it has become more and more expensive to produce wine, because of the inflation of inputs and climate change, which make plots less productive, “explains Professor Jean-Marie Cardebat, specialist in the wine world.

The increasingly rainy spring, in particular, promote the propagation of the mildew, a very dangerous fungus for harvests.

“But above all, demand has completely collapsed in recent years,” said the economist. The French, first consumers of Bordeaux, now drink 70 % less wine per person than in the 1970s. “We lost the habit of drinking“ table wine ”at all meals, especially red wine,” summarizes the economist. The crisis affects all French regions, but blues french winegrowers | “i the regions producing red are the most affected.

Unfortunately for Bordeaux, 41 % of which go abroad, the tendency to drink less is global: from the 2000s, exports to the United States and the rest of Europe, which had made the prosperity of the vineyard, began to drop.

“During the 2010s. the winegrowers believed that China would take over and started to invest again, but they found themselves trapped when the Chinese economy closed,” analyzes the p^r Jean-Marie CARDEBAT. This summer. the prices imposed by Donald blues french winegrowers | “i Trump on European exports, including on wine, have gone a new blow to the winemakers.

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A prices at half mast

Prices have naturally plummeted with demand. This summer. Julien Luro and a hundred local winegrowers demonstrated in front of supermarkets which announced bottles of Bordeaux wine at 1.39 euros ($ 2.25 Can).

The winegrowers who sell “everyday” wine are the most affected, unable to cover their production costs. But even the more famous vineyards. including some great vintages, now have their heads underwater in the face of the scarcity of orders.

“I can still pay my employees, but I have no reservation,” worries Jérôme Trollet. Owner of Château Martinon. in his family for four generations, this septuagenarian exports all over the world, including at the SAQ. “I make my machines last, I have fewer workers, I saved on insurance … If next week it hails, it’s the end. »»