Buy a used ebike in 2025: the purchasing guide ⋆ VOJO

Do we buy an used VTTAE like a classic mountain bike? Yes and no. If most of the components can find themselves indifferently on the two families of bikes, the weight and power of the system require lending particular attention to a few elements, not to mention the entire electronic part which requires certain specific knowledge and verifications. To make sure not to forget anything and to avoid unpleasant surprises after purchase, here is our used VTTAE buying guide:

The procedure to follow

In broad outline, the purchase of a used electric bike works like that of a conventional bicycle. In this regard, we invite you to read our used mountain bike buying guide to find our checklist (available for download at the end of the article) as well as all the steps to follow, from contact to payment by the possible transfer of the bicycode, the compulsory identification code in since 2021 on bikes sold by professionals. Here, we will focus on the specific points for the purchase of an Ebike.

The second-hand purchase of a 3-point VTTAE

1- Electronics

Mechanics are (more or less) easy: everything is before our eyes and easily verifiable, possibly using one or two very accessible tools. Electronics, however, is something else … and there are many on an Ebike.

In fact, if the electric motor, the gears of its transmission or the battery cells are not wear out in the same proportions as a tire, a pair of platelets or a chain, they all age at their pace. Even more worrying, they can even wear out without being used (batteries in particular) and improper use can tire them prematurely. Finally, if it turns out that it is necessary to change parts, the intervention is generally very expensive. It is therefore better to avoid this kind of disappointment with specific indicators of the state of these components.

Regarding the command and the screen, it is rather simple: we check their state visually and we test the different functions, including settings like that of light for example. In small components, also remember to inspect the speed sensor, usually located in the left base, not very far from the rear brake. However, find out before: on some bikes or assistance system, it is directly integrated into the engine with a magnet at the valve rather than the disc and you will not find anything on the basis.

Photo Mountain Bike Connection Summer – Rupert Fowler

On the battery side, there is their lifespan in load cycles and it is generally between a few hundred and a thousand cycle, depending on the level of range of the product. Brought back into years of use, this can range from 3 or 4 years for very frequent use and a treatment that sometimes leaves something to be desired at 8 or 9 years for occasional outings with perfect maintenance. Beyond that, the battery can always remain usable but it will have lost a significant part of its capacity, like a smartphone which would hold two days in new state but only half a day at the end of its life.

Many factors influence the life of a battery: storage and use temperature, the load level to which the battery is stored if it is not used for several weeks or the intensity of use. To make it live as long as possible, it should not be asked too much with high assistance modes, low rates (less than 60-65 rpm) or long climbs, drive between 10-15 ° C and 20-25 ° C and store it at 20 ° C with 80 % load. Not easy for everyone, even more in mountain biking …

For the engine, the storage will not change much: inside, we do not do chemistry as in a battery but a little electricity and mechanics, with a lot of rotation parts. He therefore does not wear out when not used. What can tire him prematurely are mainly water and dust that could infiltrate inside. Here, we will therefore verify the state of the protective housing and we will be interested in the conditions of use (in bad weather?) As well as in cleaning (jet? High pressure? Sponge?).

Finally, there is, for each brand, a tool that allows you to have a precise idea of the state of all electronic components: diagnostic software. Some brands, such as Fazua, Mahle or Shimano, make it accessible to the public, to download to its computer and then connect it to the bicycle via a cable. The others, on the other hand, reserve it for approved resellers even if some, like Bosch, offer a quick “mini-diagnostic” in their smartphone application.

If you sell your AE mountain bike, or if you are looking to buy one, the diagnostic report is essential sesame. It allows the two parties to have precise information on the state of the system and possibly a solid base on which to discuss the price. When it is to be made in store, the diagnosis can be paid but it is often the business of around twenty or about thirty euros, sometimes less. A very low price for a more serene sale.

2- A VTTAE, it’s heavy

You will not be taught anything, a VTTAE generally is between 5 and 10 kg more than an ATV without equivalent travel assistance. What influence? You can of course have the same weight variations (or more) between two drivers, not to mention the more or less supported driving style, but a person can move on their bike and amortize shocks. The weight of the bicycle is “undergoing” and an Ebike will tend to more significantly solicit certain parts.

Thus, remember to carefully check the condition of the rear wheel, which is the one that takes the biggest shocks due to its position and the overweight which reduces maneuverability. Number and tension of the rays, surface and alignment of the rim, freedom and play of bearings are all elements that could quickly be problematic and cost dear if all the lights are not green.

Many other components or “hot spots” can wear out more quickly with a high weight constraint like the suspensions (rings of fork guide, rear suspension points), brakes (platelets and discs), the telescopic stable rod (guidance rings) or the frame itself in the event of a defect (especially to the junctions between the tubes) but here is more the weight of the pilot which will have an influence than that of the bike alone. The examination will therefore be the same that we speak of mountain biking or VTTAE.

3- A VTTAE, it’s powerful

Photo Mountain Bike Connection Summer – Rupert Fowler

An Ebike is not only heavier than a classic mountain bike, it is also much more powerful. With the engine assistance, developing 1000 W at the exit of the pedals is no longer reserved for a very well trained elite and the 400 or 500 W, a sign of short and intense effort when they come only from our legs, are reached much more regularly.

Consequently, the transmission is requested much more importantly. The main manufacturers imagine each of the solutions to make it more robust (with the Linkglide family at Shimano or the relationship between the chain, the cassette and the T-Type family derailleur at Sram, limitation of reporting to the volley at everyone) but these are only adaptations “for lack of better” to face an observation: on an AE mountain bike, assistance and breakers are more frequent.

For a second -hand purchase, we will therefore watch even more than on a classic mountain bike that the chain, the cassette and the tray are all in good condition and the perfectly aligned derailleur paw. Also pay attention to the lubrication of the chain: when you have no assistance, you immediately feel when the chain is poorly lubricated (too much or too little) due to the energy losses that it causes, not to mention the noise, but on an Ebike all that can go unnoticed.

However, a poorly lubricated chain leads to premature wear of all the components of the transmission. If the bike that interests you has a completely dry chain or conversely, black of dust and pollutants, it is therefore a bad sign for the general condition of this part.

Finally, it can be good to find out about the material of the free wheel body, especially if the bike has been modified with a pair of craft wheels. Usually, manufacturers opt for a steel free wheel body on mountain biking AE because despite a weight penalty, this material is much more robust than aluminum. The problem of an aluminum free wheel body is at its interface with the cassette: with the constraints exerted by the pilot + engine set, it can literally come to “eat” the notches that keep it in position, until sometimes make dismantling impossible.

Asking for a photo of the free wheel body can therefore be interesting if the bike has rolled a lot, and even more if the original pair of wheels has been changed by a model that you do not know.

Other components

For all other elements of the bicycle, we invite you to read or re -read our used mountain bike buying guide which explains in detail the whole procedure: buy a used mountain bike in 2025: the purchasing guide!

La check-list

An article is beautiful but in the field, this is not what is most practical … This is why we offer this list of points to check on the bicycle in the form of a PDF file, to download and/or print. Make good use!

Check-list occasion VTTAE Vojomag

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