Fashion Week de Milan: Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Corneliani, Church’s

Milanese male fashion may have lost some major parades, but the Italian fashion capital was still rich in dynamic presentations this weekend: Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Corneliani and Church’s.

Ralph Lauren: class cocktails, nautical clothes

The first prize of the most harmonious presentation, and cocktails, in Milan returns to Ralph Lauren, from the entrance to the courtyard to drinks through the collection.

The famous Bugatti 35 in Ralph Lauren steel welcomed the guests in its elegant Milanese exhibition space, a rationalist style manor from the 1930s. You could then be carried by the appropriate refreshments – from the Sundowner to the spicy Margarita – before discovering the last clothes.

In the colonnades courtyard, around twenty models posed in the center. The space has been redeveloped with curtains, 12 meters high and palm trees to add a tropical touch.

For the fall, Ralph presented textured blazers, gentle knits and rich mixtures of silk and linen. Discreet luxury with intelligent functional details and a tailoring modern and relaxed. Ralph Lauren wants his men to wear a palette of creamy colors – ecru, beige, caramel or clearest khaki – this fall, ideally in looks anchored by braided leather sandals.

“For the spring of 2026, our expedition to the most beautiful textiles in the world makes a nod to today’s traveler … This collection is the quintessence of a timeless style, where craft know-how meets the passion for adventure,” said Ralph Lauren in his program.

In his baroque lounge, Ralph Lauren played on maritime elegance with flax and double -button cotton blazers and cool woven sweater accessories with blue and white striped knit. Classic espadrilles and chrome details reflect a happy meeting between maritime heritage and luxury crafts.

Brioni: as light as possible

Moment of grace – and extreme lightness – at Brioni, presented in a recently restored palace that belonged to the famous Casati clan, including Maria Luisa Casati – Muse of the artist and icon of style – inspired one of the greatest parades of John Galliano for Dior in 1998.

At a time when men’s clothing is increasingly light, no brand creates clothes apparently as light as Brioni. The models were walked in the charming cloistered courtyard, dressed in very fine silk costumes, in Gray Prussian tones, red or rusty – the most surprising shade of the season.

The greatest novelty was in a gallery of Renaissance marble busts, such as a remarkable black tuxedo made up of horizontal black silk ribbons a few centimeters wide hand -to -hand sews to create a new unique irritation of its kind.

“I think it is important to remind people how skillful our craftsmen are. It took 14 days to create this jacket,” said Norbert Stumpfl, creator of Brioni.

Next to this jacket was a tuxed in pale shawl collar, perfectly cut and with a slightly blurred finish. Again, an innovative effect was created by adding enzymes to reduce the shine. The two jackets looked great on both sides of the statue of a distinguished cardinal.

Even more distinctive: a latest beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread of tiny drawings of the famous Brioni factory in the Abruzzo region – Cape Canaveral of male sewing.

Cornelini: the tailoring casual law

Corneliani is a well -thought -out male fashion brand that always gives a good idea of ​​what men will carry in six months. She presented her clothes spring-summer 2026 on models during mini-defiles organized in the paved courtyard of a palazzo, with the support of various musicians, a classic pianist at a bluesman on the guitar.

The main message was to lighten and avoid overlapping – a series of smart lessons on how to wear a suit without ever looking stuck.

“We all need a new contemporary way to wear the costume,” said creator Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, showing a very beautiful very light wool costume in a caramel shade, associated with a slate gray linen shirt. Both are devoid of reverse and passes.

Stefano’s main weapons this season are wool, cotton and mohair. There have also been many intelligent fabric innovations – such as superb knitted linen shirts, or surgeon blouses with rolled -collar -collar -colored jackets with flexible cut.

The message is as follows: lighten for a modern luxury.

Church’s: Around the “Shanghai”

The presentation of Milan’s most elegant accessories this weekend was that of Church’s, which welcomed the guests in the Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato, a brick avant-garde theater with vertiginous tubular galleries.

The place of honor returned to a Shanghai model of 1929, acquired for the first time in Cincinnati and offered to the brand by the son of a grateful client. Designed halfway between the gypsy golf shoe and the Richelieu, the Shanghai No. 1 Original – carefully protected in a plexiglass box – even had cut soles with the church’s logo. This look has helped inspire a new selection of diabolically aged Shanghai versions for today.

The key to any good pair of Church’s is the famous factory of the brand in Northampton, the British capital of the shoe. Recently renovated, the factory is also the source of new shoes made in unique leather rooms – where the pattern of the wing ends is engraved with the laser.

Few shoe brands can offer the patina of a pair of Church’s, as two men who end up classic pointed end shoes on the theater stage. One of them cut the side with small sharp knives and sandpaper; The other applied the French polish and the brilliant sapphire mirror.

Asked about the best way to make a nice pair of shoes shine, one of them kindly explained: “In fact, the best is to use old white t-shirts that have been washed several times. Asperities and impurities disappear and you get a nice finish”.

The perfect patina in the Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato Perfect. It is good to learn something useful every day.