The profession often relies on exposing its political opinions. But in the name of the defense of the terroirs and the quality of their products, nearly 400 chefs publish a platform worldwide to request the withdrawal of the Duplomb law.
It all left in early July a photo of a pre-grass from Mount Mézenc, in Haute-Loire, posted on Instagram by the very discreet three-star chef Jacques Marcon … accompanied by a scathing text, addressed to Senator Laurent Dupumb, rapporteur of the eponymous law. “With this law, you have erected as a spokesperson for the food industry which favors intensive and harmful agriculture for future generations,” wrote the chief.
Invest in agriculture
The DUPLomb law provides in particular the reintroduction on a derogatory of acetamipride, pesticide of the family of neonicotinoids – prohibited in France but authorized in Europe. More than 1.8 million French people have already signed a petition requiring its withdrawal. Chef Marcon’s text was widely shared by restaurateurs on social networks.
Among those who said their opposition, Glenn Viel, 45, three -star chief and jury of “Top Chef”. “I do not understand (this law),” he said to AFP, denouncing “the pesticides that pollute our land” while “food has a large part (of responsibility) in cancers”. “We have the capacity to put billions in the defense of our country. And that’s normal, ”he continues. “Couldn’t we find a billion or two for our farmers, to help them make this (ecological) transition?” »»
“We do this job to feed, not to poison”
For Marie-Victorine Manoa, a young thirties head, author and columnist in the show “Very very good! “, This law was a” blow “. “Cooking medicated and sterile products does not excite anyone,” creaks the one who calls for “general rebellion”.
After the speech of chief Marcon, a forum, published Thursday in The worldwas launched to unite the dissatisfied with the profession, at the initiative of the Ecotable company which supports restaurateurs towards more eco -responsibility. It already brings together nearly 400 signatures, from stars to canteens, including bistros and collectives of peasant restaurateurs.
“You have to hit your fist on the table”
Entitled “We do this job to feed, not to poison”, the gallery says the concern of the restaurateurs in the face of the quality of the products served and requests the withdrawal of the Duplumb law. “We are well aware of the difficulties encountered by French producers on a daily basis”, nuances the text, which recognizes farmers “torn by the profitability of their profession and increasing citizen demands to get out of productivism”.
A still shy but rare burst, in an environment that highlights the quality of the products and the short circuits but not quick to mobilize as during the farmers’ crisis in 2024. The leaders “are people who do not often speak but food is their daily life”, explains Fanny Giansetto, founder of Ecotable. “We are the restaurateurs, we are rather needy, we close our mouths and we advance. But at one point, you have to hit your fist on the table, ”says Glenn Viel.
Help farmers
As a side of self -criticism, Jacques Marcon says he is “also responsible for this retrograde law” and ready to become “a real activist of the agricultural cause and the environmental cause”. But he also enjoins a whole environment “to question himself”, to “help” farmers.
Whoever claims his link with the peasant world deplores certain practices such as certain chiefs who put pressure on prices or the abandonment of cattle breeds like Salers, for the benefit of Japanese Wagyu for example, or Australian beef. But, according to him, the young generation has more “want to change the world”.
