The Minister of Ecological Transition Agnès Pannier-Runacher had committed to revaluing the contribution paid by fashion brands for the end of life of their products.
(AFP / Damien Meyer)
The upward revaluation of the contribution that fashion brands pay for the end of life of their products to be ensured, a request from actors in the collection of used textiles, overwhelmed by volumes, was formalized Thursday, August 14 by a ministerial decree.
This amount-or eco-contribution operating on the principle of the “polluter pays”-now amounts to 223 euros per tonne of sorted textile waste, on a basis of 250,000 tonnes sorted, a support of 49 million euros for 2025. Previously, this contribution paid to the actors of the collection, sorting and re-use by the refash eco-organization. In 2026, this amount will be increased to 228 euros per tonne, a support of 57 million euros.
The Minister of Ecological Transition Agnès Pannier-Runacher was committed in July to this revaluation, after the network of sorting companies of used textiles Le Relais poured tons of clothes in front of several major brands (Decathlon, Okaïdi, Kiabi …) and interrupted the collection on its terminals to request more support for the sector.
Ravages of fast food and poor quality clothes
His boss, Pierre Duponchel, then accused Refashion of wanting to “suffocate the current sorting” sector for the benefit of brands, which sometimes, like Kiabi, launched their own second -hand clothing sales service.
The recipes in the sector are eroding, the still good quality clothes being now recovered by the brands, or sold on Vinted, and no longer alinating the solidarity thrift stores allowing these re -use professionals to survive, who are only found with poor quality clothes on the arms.
The sector represents 3,000 jobs, including 2,000 for the relay. The relay asked for a revaluation at 304 euros per tonne of sorted clothes. The Eco-Organism Refashion, for its part, underlined “the sudden fall in the export courses in the export of the sorted used textiles, in Africa mainly”-the Africans turning more and more towards new clothes or second-hand clothes coming from Asia. Each year, approximately 270,000 tonnes of textile waste is collected in France and “60% of sorted products” are sold in Fripe, 90% of which is abroad, according to the 2023 Refashion report.
