What is slugging? In fashion for a few years, this skin treatment has existed for millennia around the world.
To put it simply, it is a question of applying on the skin a product called “occlusive”, like petroleum jelly, which acts as a physical barrier and helps to “trap moisture while plumping the skin”, indicates Heather Rogers, dermatologist in Seattle and member of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Derived from “slug” which means “slug” in English, slugging takes its name from the brilliant appearance of the skin which recalls that of the animal or mucus which it leaves in its wake.
What interest? Slugging can be particularly beneficial for people who have dry skin, especially those who suffer from eczema, but this hydration supplement actually has an interest in many. Astringent or sulfate-based lotions can dry up your skin during the night, especially in the absence of hydration, says Anthony Rossi, Dermatologist and founder of Rossi Derm MD. Seasonal variations can also dry the skin, adds Kyle Cullingham, dermatologist and assistant dermatology professor at the University of Saskatchewan.
Start with your personal routine, which differs according to your skin type and its needs, but generally includes the following steps: makeup, cleaning, application of a tonic lotion, possible treatment against acne or other, then a moisturizer, last step before slugging. Rogers recommends slightly moistening your face before applying the moisturizer or the cream to keep “all these good things” under the occlusive layer.
As for the moisturizer to use under this protective layer, there is no rule, says Cullingham, but “products containing ceramids, hyaluronic acid or vitamin C are considered by many to be interesting for slugging. “Among the ingredients to be avoided, he continues, let us mention in particular” retinoids, bakuchiol, alpha- and beta-hydroxylates like glycolic or salicylic acid which have superior irritating potential. »»
And now, the stage that everyone is expecting: brush. You can apply the occlusive immediately, as Rogers suggests, or follow the advice of Cullingham and wait 10 to 15 minutes. The occlusive chosen “depends on your personal preferences and the sensitivity of your skin,” adds Rogers.
Products containing oil jelly, such as petroleum jelly, are generally well tolerated and inexpensive. You can also opt for aquaphor, derived from lanoline, or even a vegetable food fat, says dermatologist Margaret Lee. In case of allergies, check the list of ingredients before using a product.
Traditionally, the occlusive is applied for the night, resumes Rogers. If you prefer to remove it before bedtime to save your pillows, Cullingham recommends letting the product stand “at least 30 to 60 minutes for optimal results. »»
Once at night, it is rarely necessary to wipe the skin, but “if you feel that your face is still sticky in the morning, use a soft cleaner or lukewarm water to rinse it”, advises Rogers. “If you opt for a more aggressive approach, you might reduce to nothing to nothing about all the efforts made by your skin during your sleep. »»
If your skin is irritated, skip your usual routine, especially if it contains retinol, toutino or vitamin C, recommends Rogers. Wash your skin all the same using a soft cleaner before applying a moisturizer, nothing more. “Do not ask the skin too much when it is irritated,” she says.
The epicutaneous test makes it possible to determine if the occlusive is irritating to your skin. Apply a small amount on the arm or face and wait the next day to see if your skin is irritated, explains Rogers. Please note, the skin of your face can be more sensitive than that of your arms.
In addition, not everyone can support slugging. “I saw a lot of cases of retentive or occlusive acne” probably triggered by slugging, indicates Rossi, because this occlusive barrier “mouth the pores and the hair follicles, which causes pimples. »»
If this happens, “you should stop the slugging and let your skin are repaired. »»
Rossi recommends slugging only to its patients whose skin is extremely dry or chapped. For daily hydration, “it’s a lot,” he said, adding that conventional moisturizers should be sufficient.
Slugging has nothing to do with slugs, but the cosmetic industry is very interested in their cousins, snails.
The products containing snail mucin do not form a barrier, which makes them useless for slugging. On the other hand, they present other benefits: mucin contains “enzymes which promote cellular renewal” and hyaluronic acid, an element naturally present in our organism which contributes to the hydration of the skin by holding water, sums up Rogers.
In addition, mucin has “antibacterial properties, hence its interest in acne”, adds Cullingham. However, mucin harvest is accompanied by ethical concerns because it is only secreted when the animal is stressed.
Last clarification, even if it may seem obvious, do not use slugs for your slugging sessions and do not collect poor snails for their mucin. “You never know where they dragged!” “, Pleaning Rogers.
