Waves of 4 to 5 meters, closed beaches … What is the cyclonic swell, a violent phenomenon that will swear on the beaches of the Atlantic?

“A wave factory!” This is how specialists describe what awaits the Atlantic coast next week. For example, An impressive cyclonic swell phenomenon is preparing to sweep over the entire coast, throughout the Gulf of Gascogne. Nevertheless, From Tuesday, August 25, and until Wednesday, the ocean will rise under the effect of a large atmospheric disturbance. For example, “Right now off Washington, Cyclone Erin produces very violent winds,” explains Laurent Feuillatre, Météo-France forecaster. Therefore, In the heart of the cyclone, winds of 190 km/h are currently recorded. Meanwhile, In the coming days. In addition, the precipitation will be deported to the north, “at the level of the British islands”, and to turn into “extra-tropical depression”.

Waves of 4 to 5 meters – Waves 4 5 meters, closed

“The wind will produce this very large swell phenomenon,” continues the specialist. Similarly, There will be a long period between the waves, which creates waves 4 5 meters, closed an energy swell with much more power. Moreover, It can accentuate erosion if it is associated with a second factor, the coefficient. Similarly, And it will also be important. However, »»

“You have to be wary. In addition, it’s very intense and there is no escape”

Direct consequence: powerful, regular series, capable of lifting waves of 4 meters. “In some sectors, such as the south of the Landes, they should reach 5 meters,” alerts Michel Boyé. For this founding surfer of Ocean Surf Report. organizer for ten years of the Lacanau Pro, in Gironde, “even for us, surfers, it’s dangerous. You have to be very experienced, have a very good breath, good apnea … But it’s very dangerous. “Waves reserved for” chargers “in the world, but” certainly not for swimmers “.

Closure of beaches?

For this specialist, the message is final: “People, at this level, must be sent to the lakes. Above all, waves 4 5 meters, closed you shouldn’t swim. And there is a big problem with this cyclonic swell. it is that there are sometimes periods of lull, from ten to fifteen minutes, which suggest that the sea is calm. But not at all! After these hollow periods, the series can return in a few seconds with waves of 4 meters. “They take you much more than ordinary waves,” says Michel Boyé. Swim there is impossible. »»

On the rescuers side, a major security issue is therefore promised for next week. “We really invite people to respect the prohibitions if there are any. and not to swim if we put the red flag. We will see D-Day, but that’s certainly what will happen, ”warns Cyril Lambert, Crs Head of Post at Lège-Cap-Ferret (33). And even on the water’s edge: “You have to be wary, it’s very intense and there is no escape. »»

The Surfline reference site confirms waves 4 5 meters, closed the extent of the episode: a long swell, with exceptional energy … and this cocktail is added large coefficients, around 90. “The coastline goes morfler. These are very powerful waves. It can accelerate vision erosion, ”says Michel Boyé. In January 2014. a violent episode of cyclonic swell had deeply marked the Aquitaine beaches, and in particular the seaside resort of Lacanau.