During his first parade for Celine, the creative director Michael Rider presented an accessory that caused a sensation: a revisited version of the Phantom bag – this iconic and angular model of the early 2010s, formerly inseparable from the timeless and cerebral minimalism of Phoebe Philo.
The original phantom, launched around 2011, stood out for its imposing silhouette and bold design. He was often nicknamed the smiley face or robot face : a rectangular structure, prominent sides and a central zipper that evoked a mouth.
With his reinterpretation of the model, Rider now seems to claim these initial nicknames. The new Phantom has a rounded zipper, literally evoking a smiles.
“The subtle transformation made by Michael Rider softens the appearance of the bag and gives it a more playful dimension,” explains Martina Lohoff of the archive dot in Vogue. “It remains an assertive piece, but with a different tone: that of Phoebe was severe and rigid, that of Michael replied with a smile. »»
Why now
The timing of this recovery is not by chance. In the current fashion climate – marked by micro -grooves, accelerated cycles and constant visual saturation – we are witnessing a re -evaluation of classic and functional silhouettes. Think of the rise of the quiet luxurybut also on the return of the large bag as a manifest piece (also seen at Celine).
©Celine
The return of the vintage phantom
Long before the release of the new version, the interest in the original phantoms was already up. On collective cloakroom and The Realreal, research around the model increased by 47 % in the first half of 2025. The most sought -after versions? Those in neutral shades (black, gray, taupe) with matte finishes. But rarer colors – burgundy, electric blue or khaki – also gain ground.
The average price of a vintage phantom is currently around € 650, with points up to € 1,100 for models never worn. It was much more than two years ago, at a time when the bag was still perceived as “dated”. The Phantom may never have completely disappeared, but it has long been associated with an aesthetic from which we were trying to move away.
Today, while the first trends of the 2010s are resurfacing – from skinny jeans to wedge sneakers – and the label of Phoebe Philo gives its name in light, the bag regains all its relevance. The fact that Rider chooses to immediately reintroduce the robot face During his first parade is therefore not trivial. Recognition sells.
