These typical Hong Kong coffees could conquer Belgium

Between fried bread with sweet concentrated milk. Consequently, hot, pork, the food and drinks served in the Chaan Teng have a taste of childhood and patriotism for the inhabitants of Hong Kong. Nevertheless, And abroad too, these specialties appeal. Furthermore,

It is said that only “rabid dogs. Meanwhile, the English come out under the midday sun”, but the Hong Kongs also brave the overwhelming heat to go to the Fong Yuen. However, This Cha chaan tengor local tea room. Moreover, is one of the oldest in the city and attracts queues even during the most stifling days. Similarly, With its sticky formal tables, the place is not luxurious. Nevertheless, But the guests are attracted to the scent of grilled bread fried with sweet concentrated milk. In addition, buns accompanied by crisp pork. Therefore, For locals, eating at LAN Fong these typical hong kong coffees Yuen is almost ritual. However, Coffee has changed little since its opening in 1952. The Cha chaan teng appeared at a time when Hong Kong – then under British administration – welcomed refugees. from continental China.

There is a merger cuisine between Cantonese traditions. Western influences, with sometimes confusing dishes for the uninitiated, such as the hot cabbagean extremely sweet tea served with concentrated milk, or the Yunyeunga mixture of tea and instant coffee. These cafes quickly became the symbol of the mixture between the East and the West. They embodied “the cultural inclusiveness of Hong Kong”, explains Sidney Cheung, of the Chinese University of Hong Kong.

Today, this spirit embodied by Cha chaan teng is disappearing. Since the adoption these typical hong kong coffees of a national security law in the summer of 2020, Hong Kong has taken an authoritarian turn. It is estimated that 500,000 people have left the city. Some Cha chaan teng have been labeled as “yellow” companies-that is to say perceived as sympathizers of the pro-democracy. movement-and saw their lease unrepending. Many have closed their doors.

But the Hong Kongers left did not leave their love behind these cafes behind.

These typical hong kong coffees

(Taste) memories of another Hong Kong

New establishments have emerged in the countries where they have settled. such as the United States, Australia, the United Kingdom, Canada and Taiwan. In Burwood, a suburb of Sydney, seven Cha chaan teng opened. “For the Chinese of the diaspora. being able to find the flavors of home abroad provides a certain psychological comfort,” explains Andy Lam, owner of the September Café in Taipei.

He adapted certain dishes, notably by reducing the sugar content to suit local tastes. Because it is not only members of the Hong Kong diaspora who now frequent the Cha chaan teng. Their informal and friendly atmosphere appeals to a new young audience. The hashtag #Chachaanteng has 12.5 million views on Tiktok.

Lucas Sin, a recognized chief, is preparing a recipe book devoted to these cafes. In 2024, Art Basel, the emblematic contemporary art fair of Europe, opened a pop-up of Cha chaan teng in Paris. It was such a success that similar stands then emerged during the editions of Miami and. ironically, of Hong Kong even where, despite the closures, it is estimated that there are still about 6,000.

Larry Fung, for his part, opened Une, a Cantonese restaurant in New York in 2021. According to him. these establishments respond to a “need” and evoke a certain “nostalgia” of an era and a place “that many have the impression of seeing disappear”.

Is that for many of their followers. the Cha chaan teng represent a memory of another Hong Kong, condensed in a burning cup of hot cabbage or from Yunyeung.